Driving in Guatemala Pt. 2

For the first 6 months in Guatemala, every time you pass a police truck on the side of the road, you instinctively take your foot off the brake and slow down, anticipating a speed trap. Then you gently chide yourself as you remember that the Guatemalans don't have radar guns, or even care about traffic safety (this is for everywhere except Guatemala City, where traffic cops are a whole different post). We asked some 30 year veteran missionaries why, if nobody cared, were there police stopped on the side of the road. They explained that they were just waiting for an accident to happen.

Well, we soon realized that the police do more than just sit around or drive slowly so that you can pass them. Sometimes they get hungry! When they get hungry they set up a checkpoint. These checkpoints can be for just about anything. They always ask for your driver's license and circulation card (Guatemalan registration). If you have both of those things, they move on. Next they ask if you have drugs or guns. Of course, the answer is no. I'm not sure who would have drugs or guns and answer yes. Unlike in the States, they don't ask for permission here and will start to open your doors and look around for themselves. There are two things that might happen,

One, they find something they want. This is usually something like bottles of water or coke, or sometimes food items like chips or snacks. If they find this, they will show it to you, ask you questions about it, and tell you how much they like it.

Actual conversation: Police-"So you have a package of water bottles back here." Jimmy- "Yes, there is a group of doctors here and they need to have lots of water in this heat." P- "Well we need water too. We really like water." J- "Well everybody needs water." P- "Yes, and in this heat we REALLY need water. Alot. And we are really thirsty... So, we need to check your paperwork again and can you pop the hood?" J, getting tired of sitting around- "Hey ya know what? Why don't you take the water?" P, handing back my license- "Really, well thanks a lot. Have a nice day!"

That same scenario has happened several times with different outcomes. One time I lost a couple of recently bought cokes, over the threat that they were going to take my truck apart and look for drugs.

Scenario number two can be a little more expensive. They don't find something they want. If this happens they are going to do their best to get some money from you. They will comb through your passport and look under the hood, desperate to break you. This will turn into a battle of wills, them hoping you will just offer money, and you hoping they will just let you go. Usually you will be able to go, unless they find something wrong. If you don't have your passport, or somebody with you doesn't or whatever, Q100 will get you back on the road. It will also get you the cop's phone number in case you ever need anything. Police Xela, Police Guate, and Police San Benito are three different entries in my phone. If I get in trouble in any of those places, I can call that number and know that for Q100 I can get out of it.

Something that has helped recently is being friends with somebody the police know. Close to New Horizon (a community of ex-guerrillas) I can say that I am headed there or that I work there and they will let me go, usually out of fear. When we have other gringos with us, I tell them that they are staying at a certain hotel (which they are) that is owned by a certain family that owns the police department in our part of Petén. This is almost as fun as playing a Get Out of Jail Free Card in Monopoly (or Bancopoly).