Increased Violence

I only know what people have been saying...

Things have gotten worse here in Petén. It used to be that everything was run by a few benevolent Guatemalan drug cartels. Sure, they killed people, but most of the time it was people who deserved to be killed. They would even get permission from the governor and chief of police ahead of time. Everybody knew who they were and everybody knew how to stay out of trouble. They were the authority figures here, and once you know who the boss is, you know how to get things done. In the States, the law is the boss in most cases, so if you know the law you can live and work effectively. Here there is no set law that everybody has to follow, so you learn who the real authority is and once you know their guidelines you can live and work effectively.

Before there wasn't very much crime, especially in certain cities controlled by the bosses. In those cities the bosses didn't want their family or friends ending up hurt by some random criminal act, so nobody did anything wrong without being severely punished for it. It was a safe time where you could actually leave your car on the street and know that nobody would mess with it. That's not true in other places in Guatemala such as the City or in Xela or even in Panajachel. A while ago there was a gang problem in one of the large cities here until those people paid the bosses and literally overnight the gangs disappeared...

Now there are a group of Mexicans moving in to take over Petén from the bosses. It's been pretty easy because the Guatemalan bosses are more bribers than fighters. Because they can't handle this threat of Mexicans who are trained fighters, they have to get their buddies in the government to fight for them with the army.

We've been lucky to have martial law declared in Cobán before it happens here. The President chose there because it's the smallest of the departments to soon be declared "under siege." Word is that Petén is next, but they are trying to hire another 4,000 soldiers. There's a new "Help Wanted" sign outside the big base here. I was worried about one thing and then the Mexicans in Cobán did that: threatened to start killing civilians until the army goes away. Thankfully, 10 days after that threat nobody outside of the drug war has been killed. With martial law there are more checkpoints, the military is in control, and you lose all personal rights. They don't have to have a reason to search your vehicle or your home or even arrest you. I need to clarify and say that I am not worried about this at all. Actually the military has been, in recent years, much more trustworthy than the police. In fact, once martial law is implemented they remove every police officer from the department and replace them with people from non-affected areas of Guatemala.

In the past 3 months there have been 7 shootings here in places we regularly visit, two involving people we knew. In a recent one, the bank next to the post office was robbed (with two people shot-a security guard and a robber) in the afternoon after I had been to the post office that morning. That's the trend that I'm worried about. As far as the drug wars go, the only threat right now would be if we were unfortunate enough to drive into a gun battle or something as unlikely as that. The more present threat is that now there is no clear boss and no clear law. That gives the people who did not used to break the law because of the high consequences new courage. Bad habits I formed because of the relative safety now have to be broken. No more running errands after going to the bank or ATM. No more parking in places I can't pull straight out of. More looking over my shoulder and less walking down side streets just because it's faster.

Having said all of that, it is just as safe as ever for tourists. Increased military presence actually makes things better and all the bosses would like to stay out of the spotlight that killing a tourist would certainly bring. The tourist areas have always been very well protected with shops and restaurants on Flores staying open until at least 10pm if not later. There hasn't even been a robbery in Tikal in ages, and that's something you used to always hear about. Maybe the knew guards with their shotguns have helped. No tourist buses have been stopped with groups targeting instead the normal local buses. It's as good a time as any to visit Petén, just don't decide to live here...

It will be nice to get out of our town known for it's "involvement" and into our new house in a town without all of the...issues.

An innocent conversation that made a nice lady very sad

So my wife is a very resourceful person which causes me to be always on the lookout for the weird, cheap items that she can repurpose. Now with the boys that has gone into overdrive as she creates a home with warm memories and US traditions mixed with Guatemalan spice. Usually she tells me what she wants to do and as I am out paying bills and doing paperwork I keep my eyes out looking for the things she needs for that.

So for the boys' birthday she made a balloon wreath to hang on the door to announce to the neighbors that there was a birthday at our house. She has plans to make one for thanksgiving and Christmas and all seasons apparently, but the styrofoam circles we found in Guate are too small for our doors apparently. So Tuesday I was riding around in a tuk tuk while getting new tires put on my micro when I saw a lady hanging up decorated styrofoam wreaths in circle and heart shapes. I called my wife who told me to go by and buy some if they were bigger than what she had.

I stopped by later and asked about them.

Jimmy: How much are the wreaths?

Nice lady: These here are Q50.

J: Ok do you sell just the forms without any ribbon on them?

NL: No, everything I have is decorated already.

J: Ok, I think I want one heart and one circle.

NL: Ok, who are they for?

J: I'm buying them for my wife who will use them on special occasions for my twin boys like birthdays and Christmas.

NL: Twins? That's really difficult.

J: Yes, I think it is harder than one. Is there a discount for buying two?

NL: Yes, of course. It will only be Q90 for buying two.

Once I got into the micro it finally dawned on me what our conversation had really been about. Wreaths like these are used to adorn places where people have died or the graves of loved ones. We are getting close to Day of the Dead here and it is a month of funeral festivities right now if there is such a thing. After more than 4 years I have tuned out the crosses and wreaths and signs on the side of the road. I'm usually too concerned with the live things that may jump out in front of me at any time.

Because I wasn't thinking I missed a very culture specific part of the conversation and because of this I communicated that my twins were dead. Now go back and read our conversation from her perspective and you'll understand why I feel really bad about this. Now every wreath on the side of road waves at me as I drive by reminding me of my stupidity. Oh, and my wife won't use the wreaths now because they have been "tainted."

I Cannot Imagine

It is one of our biggest fears while driving. José was driving yesterday on a dirt road and as he passed a stopped Microbus, a 9 yr. old boy ran out in front without looking. He tried to brake but couldn't stop in time. They rushed him to the nearest hospital (1.5 hrs away) but the boy died within 30 minutes so they turned around and took him back.

It took only minutes for a crowd of thousands to gather. He called me after they got back, weeping and asking me to pray. I asked if he was ok and through the tears he said, "Only God knows." They were ready to burn him alive in typical indigenous fashion, but thankfully the head of the Baptist association arrived and calmed them down with the words, "but if you kill him, you won't get any money." The father of the child immediately demanded Q90,000. After negotiation, José agreed to pay Q50,000 within 15 days. Mateo, the Kekchi pastor overseeing the association had brought along Q7,000 to appease the people for now.

His missionary partner Domingo called me after it was over. He was driving José home, upset that his friend had agreed to so much when he has so little. He said that maybe José would be able to sell his land or something. I was shocked that the price was so high, when funeral arrangements including tomb and casket would maybe reach the price of Q10,000.

I called a friend of mine who has a lot of connections and is the owner of a bus company to get a grasp of the cultural side of this. When I told him the amount, he seemed relieved and described it as low. He said to his buddy with him, "50,000 for a kid? Yeah Jimmy, that's a good price. Maybe he got off easy since he's poor." Apparently he knows somebody who just had to pay Q120,000 for killing a friend's kid.

It was explained to me that it doesn't matter if it was unintentional, or if it was the kid's fault, or even if it was the mom's fault who wasn't watching her kid, the crime is killing a kid while driving. That apparently means prison time, unless you can convince the family to drop the charges. The "offering" is meant to be a help to get them to that conclusion. The lawyers around here have a form all ready to go.

So we're going to try and help our friend. We have several friends in the States who know José already looking to see how they can help. José is the national with whom we work the most. He is the kindest, most trustworthy person we have met here and his heart for his own people is evident. A show of his reputation is that the association already paid Q7,000 and is looking to do more. The churches here will be taking of love offerings as well, but it takes a lot of Q5 and Q10 bills to get to Q43,000.

Death in Guatemala

Last night, while preparing for our adult Bible Study a lady came by to see how I was doing...well she actually came by because she is a busybody and needed to share the latest town gossip, but at least she greeted me with "How are you and how are the boys?"

She shared a lot of information, but you can't trust 95% of gossip and the only truth she shared was that Lukas Macz died in Sayaxché. Also the family is poor and can't afford to build a tomb.

The Macz family is one of our very regular ones. At least 5 adult and teen family members come each week, do their homework and bring their Bibles. I'd never met Lukas, but he was recently deported from the States and was supposed to be in Sayaxché working.

I wasn't expecting any of the family to come last night, but several of the sisters did. They showed me pictures of him and gave me the real story. Nobody knows how long ago Lukas died, but nobody in Sayaxché knew his family, so they went ahead and buried him there. The paperwork to get him exhumed will take 2-3 months. The family started their 9 days of mourning yesterday.

I have never done this before (for obvious reasons) but knowing they need money for the tomb I asked the open ended question, "Is there anything you need?" Normally you have to qualify that question and not let it be anything, but for this family we would try and do whatever we could. Claudia responded that her grandmother was poor and so they didn't have any coffee or sugar.

It is typical for the family during the time of mourning to have drinks and bread for people when they come over. Shelley and I in the past have always brought that stuff with us, so this was an easy one for us. So tomorrow I'll make 3 gallons of coffee and put it in our cooler (which will keep it hot for 2 days) and we'll go visit the family. I'm sure we'll be helping in other ways soon, but the money to build a tomb is only $20, (I know because we've paid for two other previously). We are taking Mateo with us tomorrow, who is also Kekchi, to help us with any cultural norms that we haven't learned yet.