Things have gotten worse here in Petén. It used to be that everything was run by a few benevolent Guatemalan drug cartels. Sure, they killed people, but most of the time it was people who deserved to be killed. They would even get permission from the governor and chief of police ahead of time. Everybody knew who they were and everybody knew how to stay out of trouble. They were the authority figures here, and once you know who the boss is, you know how to get things done. In the States, the law is the boss in most cases, so if you know the law you can live and work effectively. Here there is no set law that everybody has to follow, so you learn who the real authority is and once you know their guidelines you can live and work effectively.
Before there wasn't very much crime, especially in certain cities controlled by the bosses. In those cities the bosses didn't want their family or friends ending up hurt by some random criminal act, so nobody did anything wrong without being severely punished for it. It was a safe time where you could actually leave your car on the street and know that nobody would mess with it. That's not true in other places in Guatemala such as the City or in Xela or even in Panajachel. A while ago there was a gang problem in one of the large cities here until those people paid the bosses and literally overnight the gangs disappeared...
Now there are a group of Mexicans moving in to take over Petén from the bosses. It's been pretty easy because the Guatemalan bosses are more bribers than fighters. Because they can't handle this threat of Mexicans who are trained fighters, they have to get their buddies in the government to fight for them with the army.
We've been lucky to have martial law declared in Cobán before it happens here. The President chose there because it's the smallest of the departments to soon be declared "under siege." Word is that Petén is next, but they are trying to hire another 4,000 soldiers. There's a new "Help Wanted" sign outside the big base here. I was worried about one thing and then the Mexicans in Cobán did that: threatened to start killing civilians until the army goes away. Thankfully, 10 days after that threat nobody outside of the drug war has been killed. With martial law there are more checkpoints, the military is in control, and you lose all personal rights. They don't have to have a reason to search your vehicle or your home or even arrest you. I need to clarify and say that I am not worried about this at all. Actually the military has been, in recent years, much more trustworthy than the police. In fact, once martial law is implemented they remove every police officer from the department and replace them with people from non-affected areas of Guatemala.
In the past 3 months there have been 7 shootings here in places we regularly visit, two involving people we knew. In a recent one, the bank next to the post office was robbed (with two people shot-a security guard and a robber) in the afternoon after I had been to the post office that morning. That's the trend that I'm worried about. As far as the drug wars go, the only threat right now would be if we were unfortunate enough to drive into a gun battle or something as unlikely as that. The more present threat is that now there is no clear boss and no clear law. That gives the people who did not used to break the law because of the high consequences new courage. Bad habits I formed because of the relative safety now have to be broken. No more running errands after going to the bank or ATM. No more parking in places I can't pull straight out of. More looking over my shoulder and less walking down side streets just because it's faster.
Having said all of that, it is just as safe as ever for tourists. Increased military presence actually makes things better and all the bosses would like to stay out of the spotlight that killing a tourist would certainly bring. The tourist areas have always been very well protected with shops and restaurants on Flores staying open until at least 10pm if not later. There hasn't even been a robbery in Tikal in ages, and that's something you used to always hear about. Maybe the knew guards with their shotguns have helped. No tourist buses have been stopped with groups targeting instead the normal local buses. It's as good a time as any to visit Petén, just don't decide to live here...
It will be nice to get out of our town known for it's "involvement" and into our new house in a town without all of the...issues.
